Scenes of Trentino-Alto Adige

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© John Farren

Meeting 312 - The Wines of Trentino - Alto Adige     Speaker:  Ian Roe

Held at Waltham St Lawrence         Friday 14^th March  2008

        Ian first gave a description of the geography of the Alto Adige/ SüdTirol (German speaking) and Trentino Italian speaking) regions.         In the Alto Adige, vines are planted on the valley slopes from the Salerno narrows on the River Adige up to Merano and the sunny side of the Val Venosta up to Silandro. On the River Isarco the vineyards are on river banks between Bolzano and Bressanone. Not many hectares are planted but significantly almost all of them are DOC. Most important in maintaining the high vinous standards of the area is the Instituto Agrario of San Michelle all'Adige (founded in 1874) located on the River Adige mid way between Trento and Bolzano. Trentino - Alto Adige has 7 major DOCs, of which the Alto Adige itself has by far the largest number of sub sections, and half a dozen major IGTs. Ian presented us with 5 Alto Adige DOC wines, one DOC Trentino and 3 wines under the IGT classification (two Vigneti delle Dolomiti and one from the delle Venezie IGT)
       The evening started with an Nosiola 2006, DOC Trentino apéritif. This wine, made from a grape probably more well known in Vino Santo, proved to be very fresh, with plenty of lemony green fruit on the nose and palate and a refreshing acidic finish that primed us for the wines to come. The first main wine, also a Nosiola (but 2005), produced by the relatively young winemakers of the Cesconi winery, was generally more robust than the previous one. Perhaps it's fresh limey nose and body combined with it's long clean acidic finish, could stand a couple of years to reach it's best. After all, the Nosiola 2004 did get 'due bicchiere' in the 2007 Gambero Rosso! The Pinot Grigio Riff (Lageder) which followed did not disappoint as good example of a grape which must be harvested early enough to retain the acidity that showed so well here. More well known further east in Friuli, Pinot Grigio takes second place in Alto Adige to the more ubiquitous Pinot Bianco we tasted next. I found the Franz Haas (Pinot Bianco 2005) was slightly herby on the nose but still had a fresh but quite reserved lemon hint to it. A very full, almost grapefruit, body combined with a clean finish. The final white, Gewürtztraminer Nussbaumer 2005, from it's supposed origin of Tramin, was corn coloured and had an almost sweet nose combined with characteristic spice. While it had plenty of mouth filling fruit, I'm not sure the high alcohol and the absence of a finishing acid did the grape any favours in this wine.
       The red wines started with a Schiava (Vernatsch in German). This is the most widely grown grape in the area. Grown in Single or Double Pergola form, the Sciava (the most common varieties are the Grossa and the Gentile but we tasted the less well known Grigia) account for some 37% of the region's plantings. The colour was a light cherry which matched it's nose. Generally, it made for pleasant drinking with good fruit and tannin, but on the whole was a bit thin. By contrast, the Tenuta J. Höffstatter Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir, Spätburgunder - take your choice!), was full of good spicy fruit with a fine berry nose. Interestingly, the winemaker, Martin Foradori, who kept this wine 1 year in Oak and 1 year in bottle before issue, is more well known for his Gewürztraminer, the 2003 and 2004 gaining the highest awards. The Merlot di San Leonardo which followed required some thought. The nose had a not unpleasant vegetal aroma - almost cooked broad beans to me! The full fruity body had a hint of chocolate with very good soft tannins. 18 months in oak produced a wine that has clearly got some years to go yet. Lagrein is a grape variety virtually unknown outside Alto Adige. As in our last main wine, it generally produces a wines of real character. I found in the bouquet, rich plums and a hint of beetroot! Nice tannins complemented plenty of fruit.
       The wines were accompanied by a variety of breads and savoury biscuits which were consumed well before the last few reds were served!
       In all, Ian did a great job of presenting us with a well chosen range of wines which characterised this diverse region.
       For details of the delicious food provided after the tasting (Stuffed Pork Medallions by Pat Cox and Ãpfel Strudel by Pat Curtis) click here

The Wines